It feels like Christmastime, a week late. In the central highlands for the last week of our journey, we were greeted with cool breezes on the bus followed by a frigid night in our hotel, about 55 degrees or so. That sounds warm even to my ears, but after the hot and humid lowlands, we had to break out every piece of warm clothing we had. This is the coldest time of year, and the residents here wear parkas and beanies (or toques and toboggans for you crazy types) to keep their heads warm. The scenery is a bizarre amalgam of tropical plants, evergreen trees, and lush farmland that grows - famous to Dalat - strawberries, artichokes and coffee.
It makes me realize how much I enjoy a temperate climate - my energy level went way up after feeling some cool air. Beyond the climate, we're also a fan of this city's appreciation for coffee. After all, Vietnam is the second largest producer of coffee and the majority is grown right in the central highlands. Due to the French colonial presence, there is a bizarre Eiffel Tower complete with Vietnam communist flag flying atop it in the center of town, and lots of cafes underneath it to enjoy their ca phe. We've heard from people who know that Vietnamese coffee is usually second grade - the quality is good, but farmers currently pick overripe and unripe beans to maximize their yield. We also observed families drying their beans in front of their yards, driving motorbikes through them, family dogs walking over them, children playing in them. This can't possibly be good for quality, though maybe this is standard operating procedure?
Someone has also told us of a delicacy somewhere in Vietnam where coffeebeans are fed to captive foxes, who pass them whole. Apparently the fox's digestive tract does something chemically to the beans to result in superior taste. Yeah, think I'll pass.
